Spring is always a delightful time in the Chiltern Hills when the snowdrops, primroses, bluebells and daffodils appear in the undulating wooded hills. So we found ourselves on this sunny Sunday morning heading across the lovely countryside to two of my favourite places, Bledlow Ridge and the delightful preserved GWR branch line at Chinnor. Bledlow's main residence is Bledlow Manor, the family home of Lord Carrington who opens its wonderful grounds and sculpture garden for charity. Opposite the manor is a wonderful old Church and beside it the Lyde Garden which is a sunken aquatic garden fed by 14 springs. Lord Carrington generously maintains this lovely enclave and keeps it open to the public at his own expense. A couple of miles beyond Bledlow you come to Chinnor where a group of enthusiastic volunteers maintain part of the old GWR branch line from Princes Risborough to Watlington.
The Chilterns
Cottage being re-thatchedWe are overlooked by the Chiltern Escarpment. The Chilterns lie only a few miles north-west of London and yet they are an unspoilt area of rolling chalk hills, magnificent beech woods, quiet valleys and charming brick and flint villages. It provides a wonderful mosaic of woods, fields, hedges, sunken lanes and clear streams. Bledlow consists of Bledlow Ridge on the top of the escarpment and then a half mile below the village of Bledlow clumped around the Manor House and Church.
"Bledlow is the most western of the villages which stand on the northern spur of the Chilterns, and one of the most attractive. It is charmingly placed just above the low-lying meadows which stretch across the Thame Valley to Haddenham. A large, straggling village shaded by elms; behind it rises Wain Hill, some of it all woodland, the rest bare down."
[Buckinghamshire, by E. S. Roscoe]
Bledlow ChurchHoly Trinity Church at Bledlow is situated in the centre of the village, and is built of flint with dressings of limestone and a little clunch. The Nave is probably part of an original 12th century church on the site, which from appearances probably once had transepts and a central tower. The aisles were added circa 1200 and later in the century were widened and lengthened, the Chancel being rebuilt on a larger scale and is now wider than the nave, and the West Tower was added. During the 14th century the South Porch was built and windows were inserted in various parts of the church. In 1909 the whole building was restored.
Bledlow ChurchyardOf especial interest are the nave arcades, which are fine examples of early 13th century work, also the 14th century windows are noteworthy. There are some interesting remains of medieval mural paintings in the North Aisle, particularly that of St. Christopher. The church has a clearstory which has on each side three wide windows of three trefoiled lights under square heads; the inner stonework being possibly of the 13th century, the lintels and outer stonework are modern; on the north side of the clearstory, at the east end, is an outline of a pointed opening, probably connected with the former rude-loft.
Bledlow ManorIn 1927 "The Victoria History of the Counties of England: Buckinghamshire" stated as follows:
Bledlow parish lies on the western boundary of Buckinghamshire. It is nearly separated from the other parishes in the Three Hundreds of Aylesbury by a piece of Desborough Hundred, which lies between the parishes of Bledlow and Horsenden. The southern end of the parish lies on the Chiltern Hills, and is called Bledlow Ridge, being between 600 ft. and 800 ft. above the Ordnance datum. The lower Icknield Way runs parallel to the line of the high ground from north-east to south-west, along the north and west sides of the parish, and the village and church stand back from it about half a mile on the lower slopes of the hills. Close to the east end of the church is a steep wooded coombe called the Lyde, in which several springs break out from the chalk and form a small pool. The nearness of the church to the steep banks of the coombe where water from the springs is said to wear away the chalk on which the village stands has suggested a local rhyme;
They that live and do abide
Shall see the church fall in the Lyde,Fortunately this disaster does not seem very imminent. The brook running from the pool is called the Lyde Brook, and is used for two paper-mills, Bledlow Mill and North Mill. The western boundary of the parish is formed by Cuttle Brook, which runs south to the River Thame. The Lyde Garden contains the source of the river and has dramatic plantings of moisture - loving plants such as primula and astilbe.
An inspired element is the joinery: two bridges, a boarded walkway on stilts and an oriental screen. These were designed by Robert Adams, the landscape architect who worked with the Carringtons on the Manor House garden. They give the garden a Japanese cast, strengthened by bamboos, weeping willows and a charming all-white bird sanctuary at the centre of one of the pools.
The Lyde GardenThe garden is worth a visit at any time of the year as its character and mood changes with the seasons. I first saw the Lyde Garden in spring when the marsh marigolds and irises were in flower, and more recently at dusk with a huge moon gilding the water. Sheeted by frost, the magic is different, and after a fall of snow you feel you have only to shake this unique ravine-in-a-bottle to stir up an instant blizzard.
The higher slopes of the hills are in parts well wooded, and in one of the open spaces, on the north slope of Wain Hill, is the Bledlow Cross, cut in the turf, and visible for miles as a landmark. The village is picturesque, its small houses, surrounded by gardens, lying for the most part along the side of the hill, but there are outlying houses in the lower ground on the side roads which join the Icknield Way.
Bledlow VillageThe village's name is Anglo-Saxon and means Bledda's burial mound. In the 10th century the village was recorded as Bleddanhloew; in the Domesday Book of 1086 as Bledelai. The village is situated on the Roman road Icknield Way and is the location where several springs form a small pool called the Lyde.
Opposite the church and The Lyde is Bledlow Manor, dating from the 17th century and early 18th century. It has been the family home of the Carringtons since 1800, the present owner being Lord Carrington, the former Conservative cabinet minister. The garden, which can only be glimpsed from outside, is described in the Good Gardens Guide as "an elegant English garden of exceptional quality". The garden is open by written appointment from May to September, and occasionally for charity. The large yet tranquil garden has been in development since 1969. The garden has been designed by Robert Adam and contains many individual areas including an impressive vegetable garden. There are long herbaceous borders and, to the east of the house a sculpture garden.
Whilst in Bledlow you can hear the whistle of the steam train which travels on the old GWR branch line which has been brought back to life by the enthusiasts of The Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway. Originally known as the Watlington and Princes Risborough Railway Company, the railway was largely promoted by local land owners following the failure of the planned extension of the Wallingford branch through to Watlington. Construction of the branch was authorised by an Act of Parliament dated 26th July, 1869.
This authorised the construction of the branch as a Light Railway, commencing from the Great Western Railway Station at Princes Risborough and running for a distance of 8 miles 66 chains to a terminus at Pyrton just outside Watlington. On 20th December, 1989, a class 47 diesel (No. 47258) together with 35 hopper wagons made the final journey into Chinnor cement works, with the locomotive sporting a headboard with the legend “Last BR Train on the Watlington Branch”. Maintenance of the branch from Chinnor to the junction with the Thame branch near Princes Risborough was given to the Chinnor and Princes Risborough Railway Association from January, 1990.
The cement factory which kept the track open
Chinnor StationThe Branch was opened on 15th August, 1872 and had two intermediate stations at Chinnor and Aston Rowant. After opening, the company immediately ran into difficulties and for a period of time the company directors ran the line at their own expense. Finally after being offered the branch on more than one occasion the Great Western Railway acquired it on 1st July, 1883 for the sum of £ 23,000, which was less than half the cost of its construction. Under the ownership of the Great Western Railway, track on the branch was re-laid, the original being in very poor condition laid directly on the chalk. Rail level halts were opened at Bledlow Bridge, Kingston Crossing and Lewknor Bridge in 1906 and Wainhill Crossing in 1925. After the Second World War the passenger traffic on the branch started to fall and by the mid 1950s had fallen to such a level that on 1st July, 1957 the line was closed to passenger traffic.
Real Train Drivers!
Firebox & Controls
GWR Pannier Tank 9682 Built 1949 SwindonThe railway now opens for passenger services in March until Halloween with Santa Specials operating in December. The line currently runs over a 3 ½ mile stretch along the foot of the Chiltern Hills running parallel to the Icknield Way, passing through attractive countryside with some outstanding views across the Vale of Whiteleaf. The aim of the volunteers is to re-open as much of the branch as possible. They have built a replica of the original Station at Chinnor and are working to extend the line into Princes Risborough with connection to the Network Rail station. Services now operate out of Chinnor station, principally at weekends, and run to Thame Junction, a round trip of nearly seven miles.
Carriage Interior
Ticket Office
The Cambrian railway carriage used as the Station Buffet
Station TeddyThe buffet at the station is contained in an old railway carriage and refreshments and snacks including freshly made sandwiches, tea and coffee are available. In addition they operate an on train buffet on many services. The rebuilt station has a newly refurbished gift shop which stocks a wide range of gifts, toys including “Thomas the Tank Engine” items and an extensive range of books on the glory days of railways in Britain.
THE LYDE GARDENBledlow, Princes Risborough, Buckinghamshire.
After the Bledlow village sign, turn right up West Lane. Open all year, daily, dawn to dusk
Signal BoxCHINNOR STATIONStation Approach, Station Road, Chinnor, Oxfordshire, OX39 4ER, England
Talking Timetable: 01844 353535
enquiries@chinnorrailway.co.ukAlso see;
Wendover, Buckinghamshire.http://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/08/wendover-buckinghamshire.htmlWest Wycombe Parkhttp://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/12/west-wycombe-park.htmlRupert Brooke and the Chilternshttp://daithaic.blogspot.com/2009/03/rupert-brooke-and-chilterns.htmlRoald Dahl Museum and Story Centrehttp://daithaic.blogspot.com/2008/01/roald-dahl-museum-and-story-centre.html
